Guanajuato, Mexico

Nestled high in a valley between the Sierra Mountain Mountains rests the lovely colonial city of Guanajuato, Mexico.  Allan and I visited for a few days after it had been recommended to us by friends, some of whom claimed it was better than San Miguel de Allende.  I must say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay.

Approaching Guanajuato for the first time is quite impressive especially if you drive through one of the many tunnels below the city.  The tunnels are a maze work of manmade wonder, and it's almost like driving through an aqueduct.  Guanajuato used to have a large river that ran through it, which flooded a great deal and consequently caused a lot of problems.  So the locals took the river and rerouted it underneath the city and the tunnels, making Guanajuato a city of several layers with the street traffic on one level, underground tunnels on another and the river below it all.  It's quite a site to see.

Street level the city if a wash of pastel colored colonial buildings, beautiful parks with palm trees and lots or ornate stonework.  It's a very young city with the University of Guanajuato bringing in a lot of young life to the otherwise quiet city. Ironically with such a young population, it's very quiet at night.  There are not many bars and at 11pm at night the streets seem almost like a ghost town.  To its benefit Guanajuato has almost no vice like you might find in other spots.

Unlike Playa Guanajuato is mostly filled with Mexicans (this is Mexico, after all!!).  It was strange having street vendors solicit the local crowd but avoid our table.  We think because they are not used to seeing gringos and are probably intimidated by the fact we speak English and they most likely do not.  We certainly enjoyed being in the real Mexico and appreciated getting away from vacation land for a few days.

One of the highlights of Guanajuato, at least for me, was the mummy exhibit.  About 150 years ago the local government started exhuming bodies of those who could not pay to keep their relatives interred. The remains appear to be from a Cholera outbreak in 1833 and only about 2% of the bodies exhumed were mummified.  The quality and variety of the mummies is so great they opened a museum which has gained worldwide fanfare.  There is everything from a mummified fetus, to a French doctor, to someone who was buried alive.  Many mummies still have hair on their heads and bodies!

Besides the museum we visited the Pípila, a monument on a hill over looking the whole city. To get to the museum you take the funicular up to the top for a breathtaking view of the gorgeous city.  You really get a nice overview of Guanajuato.  We grouped the museum together with a visit to the central market with its many booths and crowded isles.  You can buy anything from local produce and meats to corny souvenirs and some local handicrafts.  It's certainly worth a visit.

Other than the museum and monument we really didn't do much besides walk around and take in the beauty of the city.  We tried to visit the home of Diego Rivera, which has now been made into a museum but it's closed on Mondays.  For meals, we had a hard time finding good restaurants and found if we strayed from the Trip Advisor top 20 the food tended to be less than wonderful.

Overall we loved Guanajuato: there is a lot to do and the locals were very nice. It's a picturesque city with lovely architecture.  On the downside there is not a lot of night life and my allergies really acted up.  We enjoyed visiting but are looking forward to returning home to Playa del Carmen.

The balcony of our hotel room

Allan gets into the act with a local street entertainer

Me atop the Pípila

View from the Pípila

Allan at the Central Market

Dolores de Hidalgo and La Gruta

The small town of Dolores de Hidalgo sits roughly an hour to the north of San Miguel de Allende. It's well known for it's lovely pottery and for it's role in Mexico's independence.  In 1810 Father Hidalgo uttered his famous cry for independence from Spain, which helped to propel Mexico's war of independence and landed the town forever in Mexico's history.  Of course Allan and I not being history buffs, we visited just for the great ceramics and for the hot springs which sit between San Miguel and Dolores de Hidalgo.

We hired a taxi out of San Miguel for a short, few hour round trip voyage north first to La Gruta and then to Dolores de Hidalgo.  La Gruta is a nice little retreat with several hot spring pools, a few "normal temperature" pools, a restaurant and some rooms for those who want to stay over night.  You can certainly spend the whole day here basking in the waters, going from hot to cold, and getting served in the water from waiters offering anything from food to your favorite adult beverages. I wouldn't say the report is up scale, but it is very nice and well worth the visit.  There are changing rooms and lockers onsite but you should bring your towel.

At first I was apprehensive about taking the plunge as I'm not a fan of public pools.  I guess I think they are not as hygienic.  However, once I put my foot into the 90+ F degree water I was hooked and jumped right in (as did Allan).  A tunnel connects one pool to an inclosed structure covered in stone, much like a large spa. This is where the hot water plummets into the pool from a pipe above.  Allan and I only stayed about 1/2 hour in the water - much longer and we would have been falling asleep from being too comfortable!!

From the hot springs, it was another short 1/2 hour ride into Dolores de Hidalgo.  We really just hit a few pottery shops and bought a few items at a fraction of the price they would be in Playa.  I did not bother to buy a whole ceramic dining set, which many do.  I guess I did not think I would need or use it. In retrospect I am wishing I did.

Other than the pottery shops which are more like small nondescript factories, we did not do anything else in Dolores de Hidalgo.  We did not visit the church or statue of Hidalgo. We were satisfied being superficial shoppers who were anxious to get back to San Miguel de Allende.  Door to door we were back in San Miguel in less than 3 hours, feeling quite tired from the very relaxing hot spring.

Allan at La Guta

Me in the tunnel between the pool and where the water pours in

Pottery shopping

Some of my acquisitions

The Patron Saint of Cowboys

Apparently even cowboys have their own patron saint and his name is San Martin Caballero.  Once a year on the days surrounding November 11^th in the state of Guanajuato, Mexico the local cowboys, ranchers and their groupies unite in San Martin de Terreros to pay homage to the cowboy saint.  Although I have never participated in the festival, I have driven past it in bumper to bumper traffic on my way from San Miguel de Allende to Guanajuato.  And in my book that makes me as close to an expert as I care to be.

Our first taste of the festival began back in San Miguel when flocks of cowboys on horseback paraded around the square in the city center.  It was like they were celebrities.  Allan even posed with one for a photo opportunity.  Curious as to what was transpiring, Allan inquired and interpreted it to be that the cowboys were on a pilgrimage of sorts.  It wasn’t until later, when we were traveling from San Miguel to Guanajuato that we got the full story.

The drive from San Miguel to the state capitol Guanajuato is supposed to be a very scenic 1.5 hour drive through rolling hills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  We had hired a taxi and were expecting to sit back for a relaxing and quick trip.  Ironically the driver was commenting that the circuitous route on well paved roads might be surpassed in the future by the construction of a super highway between the 2 cities.   

To me it seemed strange that a state capital would not have a major highway to a popular city like San Miguel.  Apparently the highway project which is still in the works is being stalled by ranchers protesting that the highway would cut through what they consider to be preservation land.  At the time it seemed like an innocent comment, certainly not a harbinger to the terrible traffic we would encounter down the road.  Little did we expect that a major highway was a necessity especially on the days before and after November 11^th when thousands flock to San Martin de Terreros to pay patronage to San Martin Caballero.

During the voyage we first we started seeing a lot of cowboys on horseback and packs of men on bicycles.  Then we hit the car and bus traffic.  What was supposed to be a rather short voyage tripled into a 4+ hour adventure mostly in country with no cell phone service, hence no wireless signal (i.e. little to entertain ourselves).  There was certainly a lot of see – truck loads of dark skin colored Mexicans in rather worn looking clothing, many packed into the back of pick up trucks, drinking bottles of Coca Cola, and feeding the same to their babies.  And large buses packed with pilgrims.

As we approached San Martin de Terreros off to the right the hillside was covered in trucks.  We were amazed at the number of people who come here. The taxi driver was commenting he came as a child, but that the festival had gotten so big, and he did not expect there to be so much traffic.

Apparently the tens of thousands of pilgrims visit the church in San Martin de Terreros, and pray for miracles. They leave offerings, light candles, sing and dance.  Typically it’s a one day journey to the town, where they camp outside where there are no bathroom facilities and no food, and then return home the next day.

Legend says San Martin Caballero was an ordinary cowboy on horseback who cut his cape in half and now offers half to whomever prays to him.  Others say half the cape was given to God to cover himself.  He essentially is the Mexican version of Robin Hood, who steals from the rich and gives to the poor, and now has been raised to the level of a saint, at least in the state of Guanajuato.

At present the only miracle I am praying for is to get out of this traffic before the sun goes down. We only have about a day and a half to see Guanajuato and that window of opportunity is getting shorter and shorter.  We have not moved in about ten minutes.  I will certainly chalk this up to a cultural experience. It was an interesting lesson in history and local legend, one that I would have preferred to read about in the comfort of my hotel room in Guanajuato.

Allan poses with Sugar, one of the horses in San Miguel

Eddie and his horse Sugar with Allan in San Miguel

The traffic near San Martin de Terreros. 

Pilgrims travel via horseback, car and bicycle

Packing the back of a truck seems the way to go.

San Miguel de Allende

Allan and I have taken advantage of a 5 day respite to visit the picturesque town on San Miguel de Allende in the state of Guanajuato, Mexico.  The break came about as we letted our Playa del Carmen condo to a friend in return for his offering his Wall Street flat to us in New York City last Spring.  Instead of staying with friends or perhaps renting something in Playa, we opted to visit San Miguel after hearing so many rave reviews.  After all in 2012 Conde Nast rated it the #1 destination in the world.

We purchased non-stop airline tickets on Volaris out of Cancun to Guanajuato for a bargain rate of less than $200 USD round trip per person.  The short 2.5 hour flight was thankfully uneventful and quite easy.  Upon arrival in Guanajuato, the geographical center of Mexico, we were struck by the landscape and climate.  We are about a mile above sea level in an arid dessert filled with cactus' and mountains.

San Miguel is about 1.5 hour drive from the Guanajuato airport on well paved, winding roads through the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  In many spots I swear I was in Tuscany, as the landscape is similar.  San Miguel from a distance looks like someone took a white brush and painted the city on the side of a mountain.  It overlooks a manmade reservoir, which I'm told was formed by flooding an existing town, and when the water level drops you can see the top of the church in the now submerged city.

In some ways San Miguel looks like Merida with cobblestoned streets, busy side walks and traffic.  Unlike Merida, most of the buildings in San Miguel are painted in desert colors - oranges, reds and yellows.  The cathedral in the Jardin (park in the city center) reminds me of the Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona, Spain, by it's ornate design and beauty. By night the church glows and radiates beauty.

We are staying at a beautiful bed and breakfast called Casa Calderoni (www.casacalderoni.com), in the city center close to the Jardin. The B&B has a beautiful open air courtyard with plants, winding steps and refreshing air.  Our room has a very comfortable bed with plush pillows and down comforter.  The free breakfast includes an assortment of fruit, coffee, juice and your selection of freshly cooked eggs and meat.  Allan and I could not be more delighted with this wonderful B&B.  To make it even more special, owners Ben and Mary, are often around for breakfast to chat with guests and make them feel welcome.  I could not recommend their B&B enough.  At night I recommend visiting the roof deck to appreciate the spectacular view of the cities sparkling lights.

One of the features of our bedroom to which I am not accustomed to in Playa are space heaters.  The climate here is quite interesting. By day it starts in the 50's F and as the day progresses, the temperature rises to 70s F and higher.  Sitting in the sun I strip down, but then if I move to the shade I am cold even with a jacket.  Again I am reminded of what it's like in a semi-desert climate.  At night we absolutely freeze and put on the space heaters.  

We are also not used to the dry climate.  We are itching a lot, and having to use a lot of body cream, which in humid Playa is not necessary.  What I thought were mosquito bites are actually just dry skin.  It's not an issue, just something we've noticed in this more arid climate.  I am sure if we were here for any length of time we would just acclimate.  

One of the highlights of our trip was visiting the art galleries and stores in the Fabrica La Aurora (http://www.fabricalaaurora.com/).  We knew San Miguel was filled with art, but I didn't expect the scale, quality and diversity. The gallery has around 60 stores all in one location, which seems to wind around in a labyrinth.  From home decor to paintings to cafes, I would recommend spending a couple of hours walking around.  Even San Miguel itself is filled with art. It seems around every corner is another gallery, another art store with beautiful creations.  No wonder San Miguel is known as a haven for artists.

We have also had several great meals.  Bhaji, just off the Jardin, has some of the most delicious Indian food we've ever had.  The space is quite small, with roughly 8 tables, but the prices are low and location very convenient.  One evening we went to the rooftop bar, Luna, at the Rosewood Hotel.  The bar overlooks the whole city and at night provides a panoramic view of all the sparkling lights from the churches and buildings.  There are ample heaters and blankets to keep one warm in this open air establishment.  It is a must see.  And right around the corner is Calenda, a lovely restaurant with live jazz music.  The food is exquisite, international cuisine, and coupled with a visit to Luna, makes for an unforgettable evening.

In our short 3 days in San Miguel I am realizing how much we have not seen.  Last night at the Rosewood Hotel we discovered this whole new neighborhood with great shops and galleries, that we unfortunately won't have time to visit.  We are beginning to realize why San Miguel has become such a popular spot to live for expats; it's beautiful, with a great artistic culture. The food is very good, people friendly and it's much more like living in Mexico, compared with Playa del Carmen which is vacationland.

Allan in front of the church

Allan in our hotel room

Me at the Fabrica de Aurora

In the Calderoni B&B

Tree of Life, an example of the great art work in San Miguel

Visiting Isla Mujeres for the Weekend

Isla Mujeres (Isla) is by far one of Allan and my favorite spots to escape Playa del Carmen for a short weekend trip.  Besides having one of the most beautiful beaches we've ever seen, Isla posses this wonderful island charm that is hard to come by.  After having spent the past weekend exploring the island for the first time, both Allan and I are positive we'll be coming back again this summer.

Isla is only a 20 minute luxury, high speed ferry ride off the coast of Cancun at Puerto Juarez and only costs roughly $15 USD round trip per person. The ferries leave every half hour during the day providing a lot of flexibility for Allan and I, who tend to try to cramp a lot into one day are are usually running late for something.

Once in Isla the four of us crammed into a small taxi cab with luggage and within 4 minutes we had arrived at Cabanas del Maria del Mar (http://www.cabanasdelmar.com/) on the north coast of the island.  Isla is only about 5 miles long and 1 mile wide, which make tranversing the island very easy.  Most people travel by golf cart!

The cabanas provided a no frills, comfortable option at an unbeatable price (roughly $40 USD for a double room per night).  The price is usually twice that but since we asked for a locals' discount we were able to secure the discount.  The hotel sits right on the beach and includes a small pool and free continental breakfast.  The rooms are nothing special but given the price and location, we will definitely be booking again!

Our arrival in Isla was greeted with heavy downpours and amazing thunderstorms which provided a wonderful light show.  The weather did not deter us from veturing out for a stroll and some dinner.  Low season (May - October) is a perfect time to visit since no one is around.  For dinner we enjoyed some Asian cuisine and great people watching.  The restaurant was located on what I call restaurant alley.  The street is charming yet a bit cramped with a myriad of ethnic restaurants from Argentian and Italian.  Between the outdoor dining, the pedestrians and the restaurant employees eagerly trying to solicit our business, I would think the street in high season would become quite crowded. 

Back at the hotel that evening Allan and I took a dip in the pool which was literally like bath water.  I guess there is something as a pool being too hot.  However, it was so refreshing enough and helped us to relax and sleep through the night.

We woke up next morning to a picture perfect day.  The water was this amazingly light colored blue that has to be one of the most beautiful beach sites I have ever seen. We ate our free breakfast of toast, coffee and juice under a thatched roof over looking the water, listening to classical music. What a way to start the day!

We decided to rent 2 golf carts for roughly $30 USD each from 9am to 5pm and used these to get around the island. One cart could have sufficed for the 4 of us but that would have meant 2 of us would be sitting on the back facing backward. 

Carting around the island was the ideal way to get around.  There are not a lot of cars and you really feel like you are on a Carribean island.  Isla is absolutely beautiful with gorgeous beaches and it seems people really care for their homes and shops.  Storefronts are well maintained and painted in bright Caribbean colors like light blue and yellow. Parks are well groomed and you don't see much poverty or rift raft.

Our first stop for the day was at a turtle farm where they breed and raise fresh water and sea turtles.  It was a great way to see the turtles up close and even observe other sea creatures in tanks like sea horses and octopuses.  You can pick up rays, fresh water turtles and conch, but not the sea turtles.  Then in the ocean in a decent sized enclosure was a nurse shark.  I'd say our local guide was one of the highlights as he let us break a few rules which I won't discuss here, and he added a lot of smiles and charm, always ready to help us or answer any questions (in Spanish).

After the turtle farm we went to vist the home of a very eccentric guy who built his home all from recycled materials. The base the home floats on is made from plastic bottles.  His home was originally in Puerto Aventuras, but it was destroyed in a storm, so he rebuilt in Isla.  We observed his make shift residence from the shore as it appeared he was not home.  We actually don't know the owner, nor have every met him and as he was not expecting us, I am not entirely surprised he was out.

For lunch that day we enjoyed an incredible meal at Pita Amore (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Isla-Mujeres-Pita-Amore/268098901254).  The menu is small and really only consists of pitas stuffed with meat like chicken or turkey and vegetables. However, the food is so delicious, it's not only highly rated on Trip Advisor, it's also been visited by celebrity Chef Jacques Pepin and is also now one of our favorite lunch spots in all of the Rivera Maya. The inside of the restaurant is a bit rustic, but the food is so good it doesn't matter.

After lunch we spent some time on the beach outside our hotel, as yachts moored not too far off shore.  The water was a warm 85 degrees and you could wade out hundreds of feet on the soft sand.  It was one of those days and places where we began to think how lucky we were to be living in such a beautiful spot.  We reflected back on our lives and what brought us to this point in our lives. We contemplated our friends and family who were all mostly back in cold climates not enjoying the warm waters of the Caribbean.  And it wasn't like this was just a rare vacation for us - we live only about an hour away, and Playa del Carmen is arguably just as nice.

Dinner that evening was scrumptious Mediterranean food at Olivias (http://www.olivia-isla-mujeres.com/index.aspx) which consisted of pita, kebabs, salad and moussaka.  Olivias is also well rated on Trip Advisor. Without a doubt we'll be returning for dinner on our next trip this summer.

The following day was cloudy, but that did not prevent Scot and Allan from partaking in a small snorkeling adventure in a small inlet within walking distance of our cabanas at the Avalon Reef Club. From what I hear the variety and quantity of fish marvel that of Puerto Morelos.  Scot and Allan think the hotel must feed the fish to keep so many in such a small area.

After snorkeling it was time to leave the wonderful island.  Allan and I were already mentally planning another trip back before even departing.  Isla Mujeres is just so charming and beautiful.  We expect to return over and over!

Hotel Cabanas Maria del Mar

Night view of restaurant alley

Sea turtle at the turtle farm

Allan with a conch at the turtle farm

Our travel companions, Scot and Vicki

Allan and I with Cancun across the water

Allan and I on the north beach

View from the breakfast table

Snorkeling at the Avalon Hotel

Allan, Scot and I at the floating house

My and my golf cart

Exploring Valladolid, Cenote Zaci, Centote Dzitnup and Uyama

Tucked away 1.5 hours away from Playa del Carmen in the interior of the Yucatan, 1/2 way between Playa del Carmen and Merida is the beautiful colonial city of Valladolid.  Draped in beautifully colored facades and assembled with boxed shaped architecture with framed doors, windows and roofs, Valladolid's architecture boldly boasts it's colonial roots in a kaleidoscope of muted pastels.  Meandering around the winding streets one can easily get lost among the interesting shops.

Allan and I, along with friends Jim, Janet, Marilou, and Isa are staying at the Maria de la Luz (http://www.marialuzhotel.com.mx) a no frills, $40 USD/night hotel with pool right on the city center square with decent double beds and unbeatable location.   I walk out the front door and am greeted with the hustle and bustle of city life as it bends around the city square.  At night the Church of San Gervasio with dual spires looms over the rooftops and shines like a beautiful medallion.

Day and night I feast on rich and creamy homemade coconut ice cream with pieces of whole coconut.  It certainly helps to beat the heat and humidity which is noticeably more oppressive than at the coast.  However, the beauty and charm of Valladolid make any temporary discomfort more tolerable.  We enjoyed a delicious breakfast on the city square at the Meson de Marquez with cool interior courtyard with green grass, water fountain, hanging plants and Mexican art on the walls.

The perfect way to really escape the weather is to visit Cenote Zaci which is right off the city square.  A large round bowl shape, the cenote is half covered with a large lofty roof with some stalactites.  The deepest part of the cenote reaches a depth of 300 feet below the surface of the green water.  For adventurous types like me there is a rope swing and many places to jump or dive including a 36 foot / 12 meter platform which I could not get up enough courage to use even though an 8 year old boy jumped off at least 2x right in front of me.  Winding down the edge of the cenote down the stairs to the base, the temperature seems to drop 20 degrees.

We also explored Cenote Dzitnup, roughly a 15 minute drive north west of the city.  Most remarkable were the children on Sunday who ran up to the car eager to "watch" your car for a few pesos.  We were most taken with these kids with their eager faces, strong personalities, quick hands, shifty eyes and cute devilishness features.   We agreed to have them "watch" the vehicle, which they did quite well, but considering how entertaining and enterprising they were to try to squeeze as much money out of us as possible, in the end we probably gave them $300 pesos (roughly $25 USD) which we gladly thought would buy them a few good treats to enjoy their day.

Cenote Dzitnup is an underground cavernous cenote with domed roof, large stalactites and crystal clear water.  Unfortunately on a Sunday it was overly crowded and felt more like a public pool than a pristine oasis.  Although I did jump in briefly to cool off, half our group refrained, while the other eagerly plunged into the cool depths.

On the way home from Valladolid we stopped at the town of Uyama with it's beautiful red, white and blue church.  Once a major stopping point between Merida and Valladolid, Uyama was once a very bustling town.  Now a days it's a very quiet town with nothing more really than a beautiful church built from the stones of the Mayan pyramids.

Even though our weekend away was a short one, it was nice to finally take off two days in a row and relax.  We are looking forward to doing more exploring now that things are slowing down for the summer.

The children of Ditznup sing romantic folk tales. "Tirame la lima, tirame el limon, tirame las llaves de tu lindo corazon..." (Throw me a lime, throw me a lemon, throw me the keys to your pretty heart..."

Allan dances with the children of Ditznup.

Me, Marilou, Allan, Jim, Janet and Isa in Valladolid

Downtown Valladolid with the Colorful Colonial Architecture

Church of San Servacio in the City Center of Valladolid

Cenote Zaci

Cenote Zaci

Janet, Me, Marilou, Jim and Allan at Cenote Zaci

Waitress at the Meson de Marquez in the Valladolid City Center

Allan and the Children at Cenote Dzitnup

Allan and a girl at Cenote Dzitnup

Uyama

Uyama

Uyama

Cenote Tamcach-Ha and Dinner in Tulum

This past Friday we took a road trip to the Tamcach-Ha Cenote in Coba and spent a wonderful evening dining under the stars on the beach in Tulum.  Unfortunately Allan was feeling sick and bowed out at the last moment.  However, he encouraged me and six of our friends to go and enjoy the day.  Guiltily I still went, and had a simply amazing day.

We left Playa del Carmen at around 1pm in our spacious SUV with convenient fold-down third row, allowing for up to 8 people including the driver.  We headed 45 minutes south to Tulum and stopped at a road-side restaurant just before the turn-off to Coba for delicious fresh fried fish and shrimp tacos with a multitude of self-serve toppings.  Our friends, John and Diane, stayed at the restaurant with plans to walk around Tulum for the day and meet up with us later as Diane does not swim and is deathly afraid of water.  The rest of us (me, Marge, Neil, Marilou and Jane) boarded the SUV and drove 1/2 hour west to the sleepy town of Coba.

The drive was rather uneventful but interesting. There is a neat but pricey Talavera pottery store on the way, which we passed by as we've already been several times.  A few small Mayan towns with prominent speed bumps serve as make-shift mile markers, reminding us of where we actually are in the middle of the jungle.  It's always interesting to see how the locals live in road-side towns buried in the Yucatan interior.

The town of Coba is most remarkable for its beautiful lagoon which filled with crocodiles and the spectacular Mayan ruins of Coba.  On the outskirts of town nestled in the jungle below 20 feet of solid ground is a make-shift winding wood staircase down to the Tamcach-Ha cenote.  The domed roof is marked by stalagtites and looms 30 feet above the clear water.  Adventurous types have 2 jumping platforms - one around 8 meters (26 feet) and the other at 5 meters (16 feet).  The water reaches a depth of 40 feet, although the bottom looks to be only about 10 feet since the water is so clear.  The entire cenote resembles an indoor football stadium with the cenote's rounded shape and oval domed roof.

Although I did jump off a 32 foot (10 meter) Olympic height diving board once in Florida while training for spring board diving in college, the 8 meter cenote platform seemed much scarier.  I stuck to the 5 meter platform, which is daring in itself.  Water shot up my nose each time I hit.  The impact was quite intense, even though I kept in my arms and legs.

In terms of snorkeling there is really not much to see except for a few rocks.  The cenote is artificially illuminated by a couple of lights, but really does not allow for much to be viewed under the water.  Although the bottom can be seen from above the water's surface, under water seems rather dark.  The roof and walls of the cenote are most remarkable with notable stalactites and phallic looking stalagmites. 

We finished swimming after an hour or so, and then headed back to the lagoon at Coba feeling very refreshed by the cool, crisp waters.  At the lagoon we saw a sign indicating we could pay to see crocodiles.  Anxiously we stopped and paid a local store owner/guide $10 pesos ($.80 USD) per person to watch him feed raw chicken to a crocodile from a stick.  For me it was the first time seeing one in it's native environment and probably was the most exciting part of the day.  Although the crocodile was still young (roughly 4 feet), the guide showed us his finger which had been bitten off by a similar-sized one.  It did not stop me from foolishly putting my hand in the water and tempting the gator closer.  I am very practical in many senses but do have my moments of stupidity.

We left Coba as darkness was setting in, picked up John and Diane in Tulum and headed to the open air Zebra restaurant on the beach in Tulum.  Amid cool ocean breezes we dined on delicious fish and meat dishes and spectacular Margaritas and other mixed drinks.  For dessert we relaxed on beach chairs along the shore and ate up the night sky which was littered with bright stars and vibrant views of the Milky Way.  It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day.  As an extra treat on our way out of Tulum we dodged blue crabs scurrying across the road.

Next time we return to Coba to visit the other 3 cenotes, we would certainly love to revisit Cenote Tamcah-Ha, especially so Allan could partake.  We highly recommend it to any of our Playa del Carmen rental guests.

The Sign Indicating the Coba Ruins and Cenotes

Me at the Tamcach-Ha Cenote

The Roof at the Tamcach-Ha Cenote

The Tamcach-Ha Cenote

Me at the Tamcach-Ha Cenote

Marilou, Neil, Jane and Marge at the Tamcach-Ha Cenote

Neil and I at the Coba Lagoon

Me at the Coba Lagoon with Crocodile in the Background

 

Neil at the Coba Lagoon with Crocodile in the Background

The Gentlemen Who Feeds Crocodiles Shows Us His Missing Finger

Crocodile at the Coba Lagoon

Blue Crab Running Across the Street in Tulum