Moving to Mexico: Cordoba to Villahermosa

One lesson I have learned about asking for directions in Mexico is to always get a second opinion. This morning we were off to a late start. We departed at noon and headed east on route 150 towards Veracruz. We then needed to turn southeast onto route 145 about 45 miles outside of Veracruz. 145 then meets up with 180 which brings us to Cancun, 45 minutes north of Playa del Carmen. However there are two route 145s - a local road and a faster highway (depending on road conditions - you never know).

Unfortunately the signage for 145 was dicey at best. We did see one sign for 145 but which route was it - the local road or the highway? I took the 145 turnoff and hoped for the best. Being an ignorant male I refused to ask for directions. Thankfully Allan is a bit more sensible and persistent, and convinced me to stop and ask. Being the one who speaks Spanish, I had to swallow my ego and play the stupid lost tourist.

We pulled off into a dirt parking lot of what looked like a rundown shack with living quarters on the top level, a restaurant on the first level and a tire/mechanic's shop next door. I entered map in hand and asked one of two women inside for directions. Either neither of them drive, don’t know how to give directions or are not supposed to talk to strange men because they immediately went out back to fetch the “minds” (the men). This comes as no surprise: more than once while driving in Mexico I've seen women sitting in open air truck beds trying to hide from the sun's rays underneath newspapers, hats or hands while the men sit in the cab.

The men in the restaurant were taking their time - I could see them puttering around. Being an impatient American I half expected them to drop everything. But this is Mexico and I better get used to it for my own sanity. I certainly don't want to come across as an ignorant American. When one gentleman finally did appear 5 minutes later he had a large grin on his face and was more than eager to help. I begin to explain that I'm heading towards Playa del Carmen and point on the map at the route 145 highway. He responds that I should head right out of the parking lot, travel 1.5 kilometers to a gas station and then watch for signs indicating the route 145 turn off. Thankfully I decide to emphasize there are two route 145s and I want to take the highway - not the local road. He acts surprised, says "ahh", and then changes his mind sending me left to Cosamaloapan instead of right.

We've just gotten 2 completely conflicting sets of directions. Which one do we follow? We decide to head to the gas station for a second opinion. The gas attendant confirms that Cosamaloapan is the correct way, so we decide to head that way. Certainly we have been given correct directions in Mexico on several occasions. We have also been pointed the wrong way in the US. However, from my extensive reading about Mexican culture it seems Mexicans are more eager to please and will give directions regardless of their accuracy just because they don't want to disappoint. I'm not sure if that's true or not, but it motivates me to seek a second opinion.

At this point we are both starving and haven't seen a decent restaurant or store in over an hour. We spot what looks like a convenience store in a line of rundown buildings and decide to give it a try. We pull up as dozens of school children in blue and white uniforms look at our US plates as if we're NBA stars. I exit the SUV and spend about 10 minutes in the store trying to find food that is both substantial, healthy and won't upset our stomaches. In the end I purchase 2 yogurts with active cultures which are great for helping our stomaches adjust to Mexican bacteria, 2 bananas, prepackaged ham, a pack of tortillas, 3 diet cokes for Al and 2 flavored waters for me. The cost? Less than 6 US dollars! Can you believe it? At a convenience store no less!

We fill our tummies and then head towards Cosamaloapan, which turns out to be the right way. We had an enjoyable 5 or so hour drive to Villahermosa besides torrential downpours, flooding and bumper to bumper traffic. When we finally did arrive it was so dark we couldn't even get a feel for the city. We stopped at the first major US brand hotel, a Quality Inn, which turned out to be a great pick with a gorgeous pool, pond out back and open air lobbies lined with flowers, trees and vines.

After a reasonable dinner in the hotel, it was time to smuggle the dogs into the room. I would like to emphasize just how stressful this is. Guards patrol the parking lot. I'm glad they're protecting my car, but it certainly makes it more difficult to stuff a dog into a bag and go unnoticed. Whenever we unlock the car the dome lights illuminate, the dogs stand up and we have to rush to hit the dome override switch while also telling the dogs to "lie down". Luckily our loving mutts are obedient and will even lay motionless under a blanket. Even being carried hidden in a bag on an elevator loaded with other guests they won't even utter a sound - they don't even breath heavily.

Convincing the dogs to get into the bag in the first place is another story. This consists mostly of loving encouragement, a lot of pushing and lots of kisses while apologizing for putting them through this. In the end we know they'll be happier in the room with us then in the car. Meanwhile while one of us is stuffing, the other is trying to block the view of the guards while simultaneously trying to not look suspicious.

Once the dog is packed, we have to walk into the lobby, past the front desk, past other guests, into the elevator and then into the room. Oh, yes, did I mention we only have 1 bag? That means we have to repeat this process twice - once for each dog. It's a lot like smuggling drugs - not that I would know personally. Act normally and you should be OK.

Playa del Carmen Condo and Villa Vacation Rentals