Queretaro to Cordoba

Over the past 2 days we have driven over 400 miles from Queretaro to Cordoba. Queretaro sits high in the mountains about 100 miles to Mexico City's northwest. Cordoba lies approximately 150 miles to Mexico City's southeast just off the Gulf Coast in a lush tropical climate at the base of the mountains. We've descended from an elevation of approx. 6,000 feet to one at just about sea level. Besides fighting severe allergies, we've both had to deal with our ears popping every 5 seconds!

We left Queretaro yesterday at about noon. The 100 mile drive to Pachuca should have take less than 2 hours, but considering we were compelled to drive on primary (back) roads instead of main highways it took twice as long. Regardless we enjoyed the change of pace as it gave us the opportunity to take in the local scenery – and boy we’re we entertained!

The fastest route to Play del Carmen from Queretaro is through Mexico City, the world’s most populated and perhaps polluted city (smog). Crime is rampant, and rich Mexicans especially need to be careful. Corruption is also a huge problem – and foreigners driving through the city are prime targets for harassment by local law officials. We’ve been advised by different unrelated sources to avoid driving anywhere near the capital all together – even in the daytime. Hence we are skirting to the east of Mexico City, cutting though Pachuca and then heading south to Puebla. It has lengthened our trip but should make the drive a lot safer.

As a side note, Mexico City offers an amazing array of architecture, culture, cuisine, shopping and more. Both Allan and I would like to visit (via plane). On the one hand we have heard of people who won't set foot in Mexico City including many Mexicans; on the other many Americans live, work and visit Mexico City often and without any problems whatsoever. In fact a neighbor in Boston spends months a year living and working in Mexico City, and he raves about it. So I guess the decision in terms of visiting the city depends on who you listen to and the level of risk you're willing to tolerate.

The 2 lane highway to Pachuca cuts through the circuitous roads of the Sierra de Pachuca mountain range. Expert driving skills are required to avoid hitting a multitude of unmarked speed bumps, tractor trailers crawling up steep inclines and speed demons barreling around blinding corners to pass the trucks while also trying to avoid oncoming traffic. Road construction often brought traffic to a stand still. Dog carcasses strewn about the shoulder posed another road hazard. We even witnessed a canine feasting on a bovine cadaver.

Apart from the many vehicular diversions the drive offered much color, character and culture. Ornately decorated native pottery peered out from shop walls often masquerading as floral flower pots and wall mounted frogs. Small stores advertised mass market Barbie and Superman towels alongside clothing I wouldn’t be caught dead wearing. Strawberries, grapes, melons and papayas were being sold by small families hiding from the sun’s rays under make shift shelters. Allan and I would have loved to sample some if it weren’t for the fact that Mexican fruits and vegetables either need to be peeled or soaked in a solution to kill bacteria which may otherwise lead to traveler’s diarrhea. Furthermore, the knives used to cut the fruit are probably so dirty even if some of the fruit were peeled it would still need to be soaked in iodine to kill any germs left by the knives!

After our adventurous drive we arrived in Pachuca at about 4:30pm and settled on another beautiful Holiday Inn. Allan deserves brownie points for his uncanny ability to find amazing accommodations in less attractive parts of town. The hotel boasts an open atrium structure that scales 5 stories and is topped off by a glass roof. The rooms have unobstructed views of the atrium through wall length windows which rise from waist level up to the ceiling. After smuggling our 2 canine companions into the room we watched the Olympics and then crashed for the night.

The next morning we awoke early, ate a decent 2 for 1 breakfast buffet in the lobby, packed the bags and the mutts into the SUV and then stopped by the lobby to ask for directions to Puebla. To our pleasant surprise a new highway had just been constructed just outside of town which would cut our trip significantly. On back roads it may have taken 3 or 4 hours. On the highway it only took 2. Mexican roads change so often it’s hard to find accurate maps. Our GPS does not even work because GMC does not offer navigation CDs for Mexico. Furthermore, the new highway is not even listed on our 2008 map nor road atlas.

After a pleasant drive we arrived in Puebla without any problems. Apart from the dozen or so vendors selling puppies out of paper bags at the toll booth there really was nothing of note. Puebla is known for being one of the most highly populated metropolitan areas in all of North America. However, it offers much in terms of culture and architecture. We had originally planned to spend the night, but since we arrived so early and still had a few hours of driving left in us we decided to keep going.

It was now my turn at the wheel, and it could not have come at a better time. Ever since we hit the outskirts of Monterrey 4 days ago we have been driving up hill practically the entire time. Since Playa del Carmen is at sea level we had to descend at some point - and today was the day. We shot down hills at times hitting speeds of 70mph, passing through clouds and hugging hair pin turns while looking over the guardrail at shear drops. Allan took photo after photo of amazing scenery.

After our ears had finished popping 2 hours later we arrived in the gorgeous tropical town of Cordoba, located 60 miles as the crow flies off the coastal town of Veracruz. Allan picked Cordoba off the map as a good destination because it shares the same name with a car he used to own: a Chrysler Cordoba with Corinthian leather. Regardless of Al's method of selection, the town offers lots of charm and was a wonderful selection. After settling on a Comfort Inn we took a quick dip in the pool and then walked to the center of town for a delicious dinner. We ate al fresco in the town center while being serenaded by two men playing a wooden xylophone. Ornate architecture stood illuminated behind lush tropical trees. Couples walked hand in hand while local traffic zoomed by. After our meal we grabbed a taxi, smuggled the dogs into the hotel room and settled down for the night.

We’re now 10-20 hours of solid driving from Playa del Carmen. It's hard to get an exact number since road conditions, route selection and traffic are all factors. As for our trip in total so far we’ve driven over 3,500 miles over a period of 2 weeks. We're almost there, so stay tuned!

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Rickey prepares to be smuggled from the hotel into the car.

Roadside hazards - rocks to prevent people from driving on the shoulder.

Mountainous traffic.

Fruit anyone?

Local color. A local woman transports goods the old fashioned way.

More roadside hazards. I wouldn't want to hit one of those at 70 mph!

Driving through the clouds with no room for error. See anything over the guard rail? Nether do we!

Allan and I prepare for a quick dip in the Comfort Inn's pool in Cordoba.

Dinner in the center of Cordoba during a brief tropical shower.

Our xylophone serenade.

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